Shaving
Problem Avoidance
(Mar 1999)
Razor
Bumps, Ingrown Hairs, Shaving Irritation and PFB
(July 1999)
Razor bumps, ingrown hairs, and shaving irritation are common problems amongst both men and women. Razor bumps and ingrown hairs on the bearded skin are referred to medically as pseudofolliculitis barbae (PFB). Technically, razor bumps result from a curly hair growing out of the skin, curling around and then growing back in. Ingrown hairs result from simply cutting the hair too short. In most cases, these problems can be minimized by a combination of specific shaving practices, appropriate shaving equipment and quality topical treatments.
In order to understand how shaving bumps, ingrown hairs and shaving irritation develop, it is important understand what happens under ideal shaving circumstances and how this changes in those prone to shaving related skin problems. Ideally, hairs are cut off flush at the surface of the skin during shaving with minimal friction and irritation to the surrounding skin. In people with a tendency towards razor bumps, ingrown hairs and similar problems, the hairs are often cut too short during shaving. This may result in hairs that curl back into the skin rather than grow out. These ingrown hairs can cause pain, unsightly red or darkened bumps and, in severe cases, scarring. The same shaving patterns that tend to contribute to razor bumps and ingrown hairs may also result in irritated skin. In order minimize these shaving related problems, there are four key points to keep in mind when shaving:
Shave at the end of the shower or after the hair has been wet at least five minutes. Hair that is wet through and through cuts like butter, a good razor blade will cut through it smoothly and effortlessly. Hair that is not completely wet, however, can be as strong as reinforced concrete. Cutting through such tough hair often causes hairs to be pulled up from their follicles as they are being cut. These hairs then retract below the flush surface of skin where they are at risk for curving back into the skin as they grow rather than out through the follicle. The forces required to cut such hair also can translate into more friction on the skin that can promote irritation.
Shave with downward strokes. (Go with the grain.) Shaving in the same direction that the hair lies (typically down) will result in less pull on the hairs and less tendency to cut them too short. Hairs cut too short are at risk of curling into the skin while growing and causing razor bumps and ingrown hairs. Shaving with the grain will also minimize skin irritation.
Minimize repeat shaving strokes. Think of shaving as equivalent to mowing the lawn. Not only is it a waste of time and energy in each case to go over and over the same area, but repeated shaving or mowing may result in things being cut too short. On the skin, repeated shaving strokes increase the risk of ingrown hairs and skin irritation. It is best to shave with just enough overlap to avoid skipping areas.
Shave with the skin in a neutral relaxed position. This is the best way to shave hair close but not too close. Sometimes the skin must be stretched very slightly to allow the razor to pass smoothly without nicking. Excessive tightening of the skin when shaving, however, tends to result in hairs being shaved below the resting surface of the skin. This occurs because as the skin is stretched tight the hairs actually protrude out a bit farther than when the skin is relaxed. Shaving over stretched skin may cut the hairs below the flush surface of resting skin, increasing the risk of ingrown hairs and also increasing the risk of skin irritation.
In addition to these universally helpful strategies, many people find benefit in the use of certain shaving devices and products. The products and devices tend to be specialized towards serving either those people with tendencies toward ingrown hairs or those with a tendency towards razor bumps and PFB. A large majority of PFB sufferers and suffers of shaving problems generally tend to be African American. The reason for this is that very curly hairs are most inclined to grow inward or curl around to form razor bumps. For purposes of discussion, we will review the treatment of ingrown hairs and shaving irritation separately from the treatment of PFB and razor bumps.
Ingrown hairs and shaving irritation can be greatly improved by simply following the four suggestions enumerated above. No special shaving equipment is suggested, but experience has shown that re-usable metal shaving handles serviced with disposable blade cartridges tend to provide smooth shaves with less chance of causing shaving irritation and ingrown hairs than electric razors. Blades should be changed at least once every ten days, more often if skin irritation persists. Disposable razor blades should are also best avoided when possible. Shaving gels are important in the treatment of this condition, as a good gel will minimize the friction associated with shaving and reduce the likelihood of ingrown hairs and skin irritation. Skin Source is a product that can be applied daily after shaving. It is effective at fighting ingrown hairs and helps calm redness associated with hair removal.
People with PFB and razor bumps often have a great tendency to develop ingrown or curled under hairs, which get red, raised and tender. These bumps often leave dark marks on the skin for many months and sometimes even cause scarring. While PFB can occur in all ethnic groups, it is most common in those with very curly hair and especially amongst African Americans. Treatment of tough cases of PFB often requires special shaving equipment. In fact, some African American men have opted to wear a beard rather than be subject to the pain and embarrassment that often accompanies severe PFB. Special razors have been developed that cut the hair slightly longer than typical razors. These razors are available as part of an entire product line called the Bump Fighter ® Shaving System designed exclusively to help control PFB. In addition to these products, Skin Source is also helpful for many PFB suffers.
For most people, these over the counter products provide sufficient control of shaving related problems. In fact, there are no prescription products targeted specifically for shaving related problems. Vitamin A related products such as Retin A (tretinoin) or Differin (adapalene) may be prescribed in some cases and work by helping exfoliate skin both on the surface and around the follicles. This results in less chance of the hairs getting caught in the skin and growing inward.
Shaving related problems usually respond well to a combination of proper shaving technique, equipment and products. For tough or treatment resistant shaving problems, it is always best to consult personally with a dermatologist.
Craig Kraffert, M.D.
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