The
Benefits of Glycolic Acid Products
(April 2000)
Alpha hydroxy acids are organic acids that have become popular in cosmetic preparations because of their beneficial effects on the appearance of skin. Glycolic acid is derived from fruit and is the most famous alpha hydroxy acid because it offers particularly favorable cosmetic results when used in the context of a complete and carefully planned skin care regimen. Glycolic acid has been reported to improve dry, thickened, sun-damaged and problem-prone skin.
Although the beneficial effects of glycolic acid treatment are well known and undisputed, the details of how glycolic acid improves the skin’s appearance is still the subject of research and speculation. Glycolic acid is thought to work through a combination of reducing inflammation, promoting earlier removal of dry skin scales and optimizing moisturization. These three factors promote a more normal looking healthy epidermis.
Studies have shown that glycolic acid products cause measurable improvement in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. In one study, fine lines were improved one-third after three weeks as measured by computer analysis. Improvement in photodamage with glycolic acid is widely believed to occur and is often discussed in professional publications. Data documenting improvement in photodamage with glycolic acid use, however, is limited.
Glycolic acid is also helpful in the treatment of problem-prone or acne-prone skin when used in the context of a product that also contains salicylic acid. In fact, a recent study suggests that a glycolic/salicylic acid combination product may be more beneficial in acne treatment than 10% benzoyl peroxide.
Alpha hydroxy acids are among the most effective skin moisturizing agents available. Glycolic acid has been documented to produce a 300% increase in the moisture content of skin after twice daily application for three weeks.
Glycolic acid may also help lighten the skin when used in conjunction with skin bleaching agents such as hydroquinone. It is thought that the glycolic acid works in concert with hydroquinone to lighten the skin more than either agent could if used separately.
Glycolic acid products, being acid based, are neutralized at higher pH’s and irritating at lower pH’s. Manufacturers of these products consider this phenomenon when formulating the products in order to maximize efficacy and minimize irritancy. Nevertheless, because of glycolic acid products’ tendency to irritate the skin when too strong and not work well when too weak, glycolic acid treatment regimens often work best when applied under the guidance of a dermatologist. For many people using glycolic acid products, the skin adapts to treatment over time. This allows for the potency of treatment to be slowly increased in order to provide optimal results as treatment progresses.
Glycolic acid products have become popular because they actually do noticeably improve the appearance of skin in many people that use them. As such, they join a family of skin rejuvenation products including those containing vitamin C, vitamin A and its derivatives, and others such as those containing furfuryladenine. The success achieved when using these skin rejuvenation products may be enhanced by seeking professional advice or suggestions. These products are best incorporated into a complete skin care regimen including proper diet, tobacco avoidance and photo protection.
Craig Kraffert, M.D.
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